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You need to cut back to inside that line so when the tree grows it will reach your imaginary line. The problem with your recomendation is that if you cut back to the imaginary line, they will grow several feet OUTSIDE that line if you just cut back to it. We have fruit trees and pruning them is a serious challenge.
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Ace makes good one, Sears carries some good ones, and I challenge you to find a better hand pruner than Felco. If you think they’re good, look into some really good ones. If you have a broken tool YOU have to PAY to ship it back to the factory – not the place you bought it – and then they will consider whether it’s broken and what it will cost to get it fixed. We’ve had a few Corona tools and they are utter junk – break easily, get dull, the by-pass pruners were so wobbly they twisted and split the cuts rather than cut them. Mike, you’re kidding – Corona?!?! What crap. One, you want sunlight and good air circulation around the ends of those branches, but you also want to reduce the amount of branches that can produce fruit. There are two things to keep in mind when doing this. The fruit needs sunlight to develop properly and the combination of sunlight and air flow work to stave off fungal diseases that can damage the fruit or it’s production. Both sunlight and air circulation work to create an environment that is good for quality fruit production. It’s important that fruit trees be open so all the fruit that is produced receives adequate sunlight and air circulation.īoth sunlight and air circulation are critical to the production of good fruit. When you are pruning fruit trees there are several objectives that you are trying to achieve. In most cases, one of those branches must be removed.
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While you’re in there, look for branches that touch, cross, or generally interfere with one another.
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So let’s start by first removing any really small branches inside the tree canopy that are likely to be sunlight starved.
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